Discovering Cuba: Havana is a city filled with opportunities for Cultural Enrichment

Discovering Cuba: Havana is a city filled with opportunities for Cultural Enrichment

Part 3

By V. Lori Hedges

Havana is a city of rich history, vibrant art, and lively music, with plenty for a visitor to see, hear, and experience. However, when my son, Tyler, and I set out on our adventure to live in Havana for 10 days, we had one main objective: Film a documentary. Our lesser objectives were, for me – to gather material for this travel blog and to shoot photos for an art show – and for Tyler – to play music with Cuban musicians.

Through these objectives, we planned to see and experience as much of Havana as possible. However, because we were so busy meeting people and working, we had little time to tour most of the places tourists usually go.

 

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The Museo de Arte Colonial (right building) is located in the Plaza de la Catedral.

 

We didn’t get to tour the following places during our trip, but they were on our list of places to see and are certainly worthy of consideration when you make up your own Cuba itinerary. Here are a few places to consider:

  • Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes – Edificio de Arte International
  • Calle Trocadero e/ Zulueta y San Jose, Habana ViejaOpen Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is 5 CUCs for one building or 8 CUCs per person for both galleries.

 

 

  • Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes – Edificio de Arte Cubano
  • Calle Trocadero e/ Zulueta y Monserrate, Habana ViejaOpen Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is 5 CUCs for one building or 8 CUCs per person for both galleries.
  • Museo de Arte Colonial
  • San Ignacio #61 e/Empedrado y O’Reilly, Habana ViejaNo admission
  • Museo de la Revolución
  • Refugio #1 e/Avenida de las Misiones y Zulueta, Habana ViejaOpen Daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 5 CUCs.
  • Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro
  • Northeastern Side  of the HarborOpen daily 10am-7pm daily; Lighthouse: 9am-8pm daily. Admission is 4 CUCs.
  • Catedral de la Habana
  • Empedrado #156 e/San Ignacio y Mercaderes, Habana ViejaOpen Monday through Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Admission is free.

This list barely scratches the surface of the places that should be on your list to see. For a more comprehensive list of information on what to tour in Havana, visit www.lahabana.com.

TASTY TREATS

IMG_9554While you are in the Old Havana area, you may also want to take a break and drop in at La Bodequita del Medio, Ernest Hemingway’s favorite hangout, for lunch or a refreshing libation from the originators of the mojito. However, these days, this famous writer hangout is THE place to go if you’re a tourist so be prepared for an elbow-to-elbow, standing-room-only situation.

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If you’d prefer a quieter place to lunch and recharge, you might consider the Barroco Café, just off the Plaza de la Catedral on Calle Mercaderes. You can watch the chef’s make your meal from the dining area while you sip one of the best Piña Coladas you’ll ever taste!

 

 

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SHOPPING

 

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Venders selling paintings on the sidewalk in Old Havana

 

Old Havana is also the perfect area to purchase inexpensive souvenirs. Shops line the streets offering everything from the expected T-shirts to musical instruments and paintings of all sizes. The Troubadours who walk the streets in search of an audience also often offer CDs of their music, usually for about 10 CUCs. Whether you’re shopping from a cart on the street or a proper souvenir shop, don’t be afraid to haggle as you’ll often get a better bargain.

Since Americans can only travel to Cuba for official activities, planning several visits to the Old Havana area during down times is a good strategy to fit in a bit of tourism. Old Havana has enough cultural activities, shopping and food options to fill out your time for several days without having to spend a lot of time driving or walking. The streets are full of music, historical sites, art, and interesting people. Enjoy!

Tips for Sightseeing in Havana:

  • Wear comfortable, sturdy shoes. Streets in Havana are often uneven, and you will be walking a lot.
  • Go early in the day or later in the evening to avoid the hot, sticky temperatures of midday.
  • Carry toilet paper and wet wipes with you. Most public restrooms do not have toilet paper or soap and paper towels.
  • Carry a bottle of water with you to avoid dehydration.
  • Wear sunscreen and a hat! The Havana sun in brutal, and you don’t want to spoil your trip with a painful sun burn.
  • Carry some change for bathroom fees and tips for musicians.

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Stay tuned for Part 4 as we visit Ernest Hemingway’s Havana home: Finca la Vigía or Lookout House, located in the town of San Francisco de Paula.

(Featured photo is the Catedral de Havana.)

All photos are the property of V. Lori Hedges, and may not be used without permission.

Discovering Cuba: Getting to know a city that is vintage, complex, and resilient

Discovering Cuba: Getting to know a city that is vintage, complex, and resilient

Part 2

By V. Lori Hedges

Beautiful countryside, sandy beaches, lush groves of coconut palms and banana trees, a colorful history with a lot of historical sites to see, restaurants, and tourist shopping: Cuba has all of that. But when you first step off the plane at the José Marti International Airport, you are met with the fact that this is also a country ruled by the strong hand of a dictator.

The arrival area of the Havana airport doesn’t have the big, spacious welcoming atmosphere of a U.S. International Airport. Instead, arriving visitors to the island nation are funneled to a rather grim, intimidating room. There they are greeted with the task of standing in a very long line where eventually their passport is scrutinized and stamped before they are sent to stand in another long, slow-moving line to go through “an airport-type” security where carry-on bags are scanned and people are sent through a metal detector. Finally, passengers are sent to the baggage claim area to get their checked bags before they must stand in another long line for customs.

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The author, after successfully maneuvering security and customs, joins her fellow travelers in the hunt for a taxi.

Once a person finally escapes the lines and exits into the hot Cuban sun, they have a couple of choices: stand in yet another eternally-long line to exchange their currency for Cuban CUCs, or find a taxi who will drive them to a money exchange in the city and then on to their hotel or casa particular. Our taxi driver suggested the latter option for which we were very grateful.

As our taxi weaved through the Havana streets (at what seemed at times an incredible speed), we got our first glimpse of the city that would be our home for the next ten days. Having done some research before our arrival, I expected to see evidence of decades of living with embargos and shortages. Buildings, cars, clothes, shoes – virtually everything must last for years as new things are very difficult to obtain.

Things we take for granted in America, like oil filters and other pollution control parts for our cars, are almost non-existent in Cuba. Want a steak? Good luck finding one unless you patronize one of the very exclusive new establishments in Havana. The average Cuban dines primarily on chicken and pork. Even seafood is scarce for the typical Cuban household, which seems ridiculously strange considering Cuba is an island nation. I was told most of the seafood is reserved for export purposes.

I’m not going to lie to you. There is a lot – and I mean A LOT – of poverty in Havana and all of Cuba. There are people living in partially crumbling buildings that look like they are in the middle of a demolition project. Once I was taking a photo of such a building, when I realized there was a man waving at me from the balcony of one of the apartments.

 

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Above a man spies me taking his photo and waves.

 

Later, I met a woman, named Maris, who lived with her daughter, husband, and mother-in-law in a two-room hovel. Her living room and kitchen combination space was about the size of an 8×10 bathroom, with a similar-sized room above which served as the family’s sleeping room. Despite her obvious needs, Maris was happy that I wanted to talk with her, and she more than willingly shared information about herself and her city.

The thing that was really brought home to me while discovering this wonderful culture is that life is what you make it. You can be angry and filled with self-pity because of your difficult circumstances (and some Cubans, like Maris, have some pretty tough circumstances), or you can make do and make the best of things while looking forward to better times.

The Cuban people are experts at “making do” and turning something old into something newly useful. The most visible examples of this skill are the hundreds of vintage cars that cruise around the city streets. Those 1950 cars have been rebuilt, repainted, vigorously maintained, and often rigged with soviet parts to keep on running, and run they do. Most Cuban vintage car owners are very proud of their vehicles, and they keep them shined up to prove it. I know more than a couple old-car enthusiasts here in the United States that would give some serious money to own a couple of those cars!

 

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Colorful vintage cars line the street near the capitol building while taxi drivers wait for clients.

 

As I walked about Havana and talked with more and more of its citizens, I soon forgot about much of the economic deficiencies, and I fell in love with this gracious old city. Everywhere I went, I was greeted with warmth. If I needed assistance, there was always someone who was happy to help. It was so easy to meet people, and by the second day there, we had already made several new friends. My life has been permanently changed for the good because of my days in Havana.

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In part 3 of my Havana series, we’ll discover some of the sites you won’t want to miss on your trip to Cuba!

All photos are the property of V. Lori Hedges, and may not be used without permission.

Traveling with Teens

Traveling with Teens

Planning a family vacation is always a difficult task. How much can you spend? Where will you stay? How will you get “X” number of people to the destination? Those are questions that must be answered for just about any trip, but when teenagers are a part of the equation, the struggle increases with each teen added to the mix.

A vacation with teenagers is an active venture. They rarely are happy just spending a week lounging in a beach chair around a pool while reading a good novel. They want to be doing things and seeing things. This causes a challenge for families that have a mixture of ages. Often parents are just looking for a relaxing holiday. Younger kids often are fine with days splashing in a pool or playing on a playground. Teenagers, however, want to go, go, go. Finding that sweet spot where everyone is happy is tough.

Here are two quick and easy solutions if you are planning a vacation with your teenagers:

  1. Take a cruise. There are several cruise lines that really cater to families with children and teens. Look for cruises that offer kid camps for the younger children – they will be kept busy doing all kinds of crafts, recreation, and sciency stuff – and teen-oriented activities – they will be kept busy doing all types of physically-challenging activities, such as learning to surf in the surf pool or participating in an improv show. Meanwhile, parents are left to do or not do whatever they want, guaranteeing that everyone will get the vacation of their dreams.
  2. Look at all-inclusive resorts for families. These resorts, like family cruises, specialize in activities for a variety of ages, keeping the teens and children entertained and parents relaxed.

But what if you don’t want a cookie-cutter vacation. What if you’re looking for something more adventurous and unique? There are a few things you need to consider as you make your plans:

  1. What are the ages of the people going on the vacation?
  2. How many people are in the party?
  3. What are the interests – music, sports, hobbies – of each person going on the trip?
  4. How active is each person and what is their fitness level?
  5. What kind of location does each person prefer? Beach? Mountains? City? Country?
  6. What kind of weather does each person prefer? Cold? Hot?
  7. Are they adventurous or more reserved?
  8. How are you traveling? Driving? Flying? Train?
  9. How far away can you go?
  10. How much can you spend?

All of the answers to these questions will help you to determine where you’ll go and what you’ll do on your trip. My husband and I have six sons. Two are working adults, two are college students, and two are high school sophomores. Having a two- or three-year gap between the boys has made planning vacations a real challenge in the past. When the oldest two boys were around 9 to 11 in age, the youngest were just babies, and a lot of activities were hard to do with babies in tow. When the older kids were teens, they didn’t want to participate in the “baby stuff” that was appropriate for their elementary age brothers.

It was very frustrating. It is equally frustrating now. My oldest four boys are over 21, which opens up a lot of options for us, but the youngest two are 16, which eliminates many of those options again. Despite these problems, we have managed to take some pretty spectacular trips the past couple of years. So where do you start?

First of all, just know that one or more of your children (no matter their age) are going to indicate they don’t want to go and do whatever you are planning. That’s okay. Proceed. They don’t know, really, that they are going to have a good time. My boys always think my ideas for trips are “boring,” but they always come away saying, “Thanks, Mom, I had a great time.” The trick is to plan a trip that  has a balance between intellectual growth, physical activity and relaxation.

A Balance of intellectual stimulation, physical activity and relaxation is the key to a successful vacation when traveling with teenagers.

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Everyone will learn something if you pick a museum about your teen’s favorite subject.
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Hiking, bicycling, or boogey boarding are all good activities to burn off some of your teen’s abundance of energy.

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Make sure you plan time to just relax and unwind.

So armed with the information from the questions above and an overall budget for your trip, start by making a list of three cities or locations that sound promising. When we were searching for our summer vacation destination, I picked Washington D.C., Savannah, Ga., and Miami, Fla. Right off the bat, I eliminated Miami since we were driving, and we didn’t want to spend the entirety of the trip in a van.

I knew Washington D.C. is a happening city so that is where I began my research, with my first internet search being “Things to Do in Washington D.C.” I made a list of places and activities I thought would interest various family members who were going on the trip and included the admission prices of each activity. Then I began plotting an itinerary to see what was feasible to do in the time we had allotted. (Washington D.C. has so much to do, much of which is free.) Then we had a short family meeting to discuss the options for activities if we went with a D.C. trip.

We had pretty much settled on D.C. and had even booked our hotel rooms through Booking.com which offers the “pay-when-you-stay” option. However, in order to stay within our budget, we had to book a hotel in Manassas, Va., which meant a lot of driving through D.C. traffic. We looked at taking the train into the city at least one time, which sounded kind of fun, but that was pretty expensive with six people in the group. By the time we crunched the numbers, D.C. had grown way out of our comfort zone as far as budgeting was concerned.

Also, the trip was leaning heavy on intellectual growth, but I figured all the walking from one attraction to another would provide enough physical activity for balance. However, I was concerned that there was not enough down time for those of us who needed some relaxation included in the itinerary. So it was back to the drawing board, with another round of research.

Then I started researching options in Savannah and Tybee Island in Georgia, and things just started to fall together. It didn’t take long to determine that this was the perfect destination for my family. There was something for everyone: sightseeing, activities, and beach time. At the end of the trip, everyone agreed that Savannah and Tybee Island were amazing destinations for our group. (See my stories on those two destinations in my blog listings.)

Now the family wants to celebrate the holidays with a trip instead of the traditional gift-giving routine, so I’m back to researching. My oldest son has requested beach time, so southern coastal destinations are the main focus. This time we have 10 or 11 people in our group so it’s going to be an even bigger challenge to please everyone, but I feel confident that my method will again result in a successful vacation!

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What vacation destination has been your family’s favorite? Also, if you have any suggestions for a Christmas vacation destination (with beaches), I’d like to hear from you. Share in the comments below!

All photos are the property of V. Lori Hedges and may not be used without permission.
Copyright 2016 V. Lori Hedges. All Rights Reserved.

Savannah, Georgia

Savannah, Georgia

Savannah, Georgia is the grand dame of the south. Known for beautiful historical architecture, breathtaking scenery, and southern hospitality, Savannah is definitely a place you need to put on your bucket list.

During my recent visit to this spectacular destination, I got a little taste of why people return year after year. The streets are lined with trees draped with Spanish moss, giving the city a feeling of romantic times gone by.

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Since we visited during the blazing heat of the summer, our family spent most of our time at the Tybee Island Beach. However, we did set one day aside to do a little exploring in the historic district.

Our first stop: Forsyth Park. The big attraction for us was the beautiful fountain found at the park’s center. This fountain has a specific meaning for us since it is the sister fountain to the Broadway fountain found in our hometown of Madison, Indiana.

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Forsyth Fountain in Savannah

 

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Broadway Fountain in Madison, Indiana

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While the fountain fixtures are very similar, there are a few differences: Madison’s fountain is aged-green copper, while the Savannah fountain is white. Our fountain is smaller with the fixtures situated more compactly, while the Savannah fountain is larger and more spread out. Despite the fact that the fountains are so similar, my family decided that they preferred our hometown fountain of the two. However, both are beautiful iconic monuments in their communities.

Both fountains are located in the center of a park. However, we had to admit that Forsyth Park as a whole had so much more to offer than our own Broadway Park in Madison. For one thing, Forsyth Park is much larger, giving patrons plenty of space to participate in the variety of activities available. There are shaded benches, walking paths, interactive art pieces, a splash park, monuments, and areas for music performances. All of this is packaged in a beautifully landscaped environment. It really is a jewel in the city’s crown.

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Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

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After spending a bit of time enjoying the park, we set off on a hike through the historic neighborhoods in search of the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. My son, Nathan, is an ardent student of religion, and his two requests for the trip was to tour the cathedral and the local Jewish Synagogue. So off we went.

img_9014You would think it would be easy to find a massive Cathedral since the spire towers above every other building in the city. However, we managed to get lost which resulted in us walking blocks out of the way – I now like to refer to it as the scenic walk because we saw parts of the city we would have missed if we hadn’t been directionally challenged.

In spite of the beauty we were able to take in, it was an extremely hot day – temperatures climbed into the high 90s with high humidity – so we were very relieved to finally step into the cool air-conditioned Cathedral.

Being Baptist, I’ve only been inside the couple Catholic churches in my own town, so I was not prepared for the beauty inside this amazing structure. From the stained-glass windows to the paintings to the soaring ceilings, beautiful is not even a strong enough word to describe the interior of this house of worship.

I urge you to take an hour to check out the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. The church is open for self-guided touring Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 11:45 a.m. and from 12:45 p.m. to 5 p.m. The admission fee is a $2 per adult donation.

Mickve Israel Temple

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After leaving the cathedral, we set out on a hike to the Mickve Israel Temple. We finally had our bearings, so we found it fairly quickly. Again, we were glad to step into the coolness of the lobby, where we were greeted warmly by the tour guides and gifted with frosty bottles of water. We paid the $7 Per person admission for the tour, and then relaxed until it was our turn to ascend the stairs to the auditorium.

When our group stepped into the sanctuary, I was surprised to find that it looked very similar to the Catholic churches back home. I was even more surprised to find out that although it looked like Catholic Church architecture, the Jewish congregation had actually built the building to look the way it does.

img_9032Our guide gave an interesting presentation on the history of the church and its members and then invited us to step onto the platform for a closer look at the artifacts located in the case behind the pulpit. We were then ushered to the upper level of the building where we were given time to peruse a mini-museum about the founding of the Jewish community in Savannah.

Although my husband’s family were originally of Jewish faith, we don’t even know any practicing Jews in our own community, so this stop on our vacation gave us a glimpse into the faith practices of some of our ancestors. Our guide said they rarely get non-Jewish visitors on the tours, so he was delighted to meet our family and share his faith with us.

If you’re looking for an interesting, mind-stretching experience, make sure visiting the Mickve Israel Temple is on your Savannah itinerary. The temple is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 3:30 p.m.

With both churches, you’ll want to check their websites to make sure they are not closed for religious services on the day you want to visit.

img_9005After all the walking and church touring, the natives were getting restless for food, so it was time to hike back to our vehicle which was several blocks away at this point. We snaked our way through the residential streets, noticing the beautiful historic homes. We all had to admit, while our fountain is prettier, Savannah has the upper hand when it comes to historic buildings, both in quality and quantity. You just feel like any moment you’ll see a horse and carriage clop by as if it is suddenly the 1800s – of course, you might since carriage rides are available around the city.

Street after tree-lined street offered beautiful historic homes, lovingly preserved. Along the way, we discovered the first headquarters of the Girl Scouts of America. Although we did not go inside the building, it is open to the public. Check their website at: gshg.org/en/our-council/girl-scout-first-he for more information.

Honestly, you could stay in Savannah for weeks and not see all the attractions it offers. There are dozens of historic sites, museums, music halls, theaters, and sporting events in and around the city. One day of wandering Savannah is simply not enough.

Where to Eat?

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I had done a little research before leaving for the day’s adventures, and found a restaurant that I just had to try out. Sweet Potatoes Kitchen, located at 6825 Waters Avenue, Savannah, did not disappoint. Of all the places we ate during our stay in the Savannah area, Sweet Potatoes Kitchen offered the tastiest cuisine and the friendliest service.

As I said on my Trip Advisor review: This was the best food we’ve eaten this trip. It’s like eating Sunday dinner at grandma’s house – home cooking at its best! I loved the vegetables the best – collard greens, lima beans, corn pudding, and more. Top it all off with the absolute best peach cobbler or banana pudding, and you’ll think you’re in Heaven. This food will speak sweet words to your soul!

Also, the prices are reasonable, with none of the entrees costing more than $8. A combination of southern and Caribbean cuisine, you will not go away hungry. Enjoy Jerk chicken or pork, barbecue, fried catfish, gumbo and more! Just make sure you save room for dessert because it will make you cry for joy. Seriously – Do not miss this place!

Stuffed tummies and a post-dinner thunderstorm put an end to our Savannah exploration, but we’ve all decided that we’ll be back. Like millions of visitors before and after us, we’ve been put under the spell of this beautiful genteel city.

All photos are the property of V. Lori Hedges and may not be used without permission.

Copyright 2016 V. Lori Hedges. All Rights Reserved.